Lunch with Michael Mondavi

Michele Duval — Wed, 28 Mar 2007 09:03:41 GMT

March 12, 2007- Michael Mondavi started the wine tasting from his new company, Folio, by stating that his grandmother and wife have had more influence on his business life than anyone else. He spoke often about the lessons learned from his business partner, Vittorio Frescobaldi, the 12th generation winemaker from Tuscany, on how to build and maintain a family business. It was evident that Vittorio has been his friend and mentor and that Michael Mondavi, son of the eponymous, Robert Mondavi, is still eager to learn as he and his wife Isabel, take the torch from the previous generation and ready themselves to pass it on to the next generation.

The next generation being their children Rob and Dina, who have “been infected”, as Mondavi says, with the wine business. Rob is the winemaker who works closely with his mother in choosing what and with whom they will work with, a common theme echoed throughout the afternoon. “Let’s only do business with whom we enjoy being with,” Mondavi says, and gives examples of this philosophy several times. From deciding not to buy from a certain high quality but high-maintenance grower anymore to Isabel choosing not to make Cabernet Sauvignon for her namesake brand, I’M. A bold move from a family who’s name was made famous with that very varietal, but Isabel stood firm in saying she just didn’t like it. On the other hand, she very much likes and did want to make a Rose in the French ‘saignee’ style and Rob obliged. Twenty percent of the free run juice from just crushed Cabernet Sauvignon is “bled” off and used to make their I’M Napa Valley Rose. This free run juice has pedigree, coming from Nickel & Nickel and Silver Oak. It makes for a rich rose with substance. It was crisp and dry with a little asparagus midway that moved quickly to a long, warm finish- really fantastic. Rose in the afternoon with a nice lunch makes me very happy.

The wine regions are many in this new company: the Mondavis’ beloved Napa Valley, along with Sonoma County, Edna Valley, Lodi, Santa Barbara, Mendocino, Willamette Valley, Oregon, Burgundy, Austria, New Zealand, Spain, Tuscany and Collio, Italy. We drank from all these regions in a tasting and luncheon that lasted over 4 hours. And always from beginning to end, what struck me the most was the graciousness, generosity and incredible candor of the man. It was as inspiring as the wonderful wines in the glass. There was more than just parental pride evident when he spoke of how the decision-making is put in the hands of his children; it was the pride and gratefulness he has for himself and his wife in learning these lessons that may not have been taught to them when they were their children’s ages. There’s a feeling of a man who has walked through hot coals to get where he is.

The Robert Mondavi Winery was started in 1996 and sold to Constellation Wines in 2004. Michael Mondavi spoke about the events that led up to that sale and the following two years as difficult ones for him and his family. His father was facing bankruptcy after having pledged so much to philanthropy and the subsequent stock drop following 9/11; Michael was fired from his position as Chairman of the Board over whether or not to sell the Woodbridge brand to save Robert Mondavi Winery. The board decided to sell Robert Mondavi and Michael resigned. I couldn’t help but wish Michael’s plan had prevailed and the Mondavi boys were still altogether at America’s most famous family winery. But in true enlightened form, Michael says it just means he was able to start new ventures with his wife and children.

We started the day with two ’05 Gruner Veltliners from winemaker Laurenz Moser, 5th generation winemaker from Austria, hence the name on the label, Laurenz V. The first, the ‘Singing Gruner,’ has another name on the label, that of Laurenz’s 16-year-old daughter Sophie, whose enthusiasm for her father’s efforts caused her to say, “This wine makes me want to sing.” It smelled of chalk and pears on the nose and it drank with a lot of crisp acids and a stony finish- refreshing, wonderful and not the least bit sweet as some Gruners are. The ‘Charming Gruner’ ratcheted things up - really aromatic, even riper fruit in the nose with a viscous, rich mouth feel, almost juicy, ending with bright, spicy acids. Michael Mondavi spoke with pride and enthusiasm for Laurenz, his family and his wines.

The ’03 I’M Chardonnay comes from Sonoma - a mix from Russian River and Alexander Valley grapes. Mondavi said his wife was adamant that the best Chardonnay comes from Sonoma and I couldn’t agree more. Jay McInerney recently wrote that Sonoma Chardonnay is becoming iconic in the way that Napa Cab is. This wine helps build that case; barrel fermented with only five months in oak makes the classic apple and pear flavors just lightly kissed with oak. Just the right balance of acidity gave it a crisp finish.

There was a standout ’03 California Petite Sirah from the Spellbound label. Every time I drink a Petite Sirah I love them more and more and I haven’t met one I didn’t like yet. Maybe the winemakers drawn to this grape feel the way I do about it. This one added fuel to that fire- a whiff of vanilla then brambly fruits and eucalyptus, very rich and pretty and ready to drink now.

The ’03 Spellbound Cabernet Sauvignon was earthy, chocolaty, chewy, and all dark fruit flavors but not a fruit bomb, not high alcohol, nor heavy with residual sugar- how refreshing to find a Cab with restraint yet so full of flavor.

I had two other California wine favorites from the day. From Oberon in Napa Valley, another ’03 Cab, made from all Oakville, Rutherford, and Stag’s Leap grapes. Rich, earthy scents wafted with ripe cherries and cedar- think cedar grove; distinctive structure from 17 months in oak. This wine drinks like a very expensive Napa Cab but without the high price tag. The ’04 Medusa Lover’s Lane Old Vine Zinfandel from Mendocino was exciting. Mendocino is like a grand cru for zinfandel- some of my favorites like Carol Shelton’s ‘Wild Thing’ hail from there. Medusa is focused on single-vineyard small-lot wines that are expressions of the vineyards’ micro-climates. Harvested from 40-50 year old vines, it was chewy, earthy, minerally, and roped together with rich fruit flavor. Mondavi named 4 other Medusa single-vineyard Zins to look out for: Pig Pen from Amador (another candidate for grand cru status), Henry’s House from Amador, and Creekside Vineyard Bar 49 from Napa. I wouldn’t pass up any of them.

Also watch for the ‘06 Oberon Cab when its released in a few years, Mondavi told us all the grapes were sourced in Rutherford from Freemark Abbey!

New England Wine Festivals

Lunch with Michael Mondavi